![]() ![]() Test it's watertight but make sure you dry the container thoroughly.Using a hot-melt glue-gun run a bead of glue all around the base and side barrier joins to make sure the container is water-tight.Make the base approximately 8cm larger than the table size to allow for side barriers and battens (if required). Next using a suitable product (we used polypropylene sheet as the resin doesn't stick to it) cut a base and side barriers to create a container around the wood.Begin with a flat sheet - something like mdf or chipboard which is just slightly larger that the slab you will be producing which will make a baseboard to work upon. ![]() Now position your slabs of wood and allow for your river channel so you can make a container around the whole table slab - this will support the resin whilst pouring and curing (the river): The resin we used can be measured by weight at 100:45 resin:hardener or volume at a ratio of 2:1.TIP when you have thoroughly mixed the resin and hardener, pour the mixture into a second cup and mix again to make sure no unmixed resin remains - this is called 'Double Potting'.When the resin is fully cured use abrasives to level off the surface, removing any high spots with a sander or with abrasive paper - you are aiming to leave a keyed surface so a coarse abrasive is ideal.Overfill the gaps slightly with resin and then leave to cure fully following the instructions.Measure and mix a small amount of resin and pour into any gaps - make sure you check on this after a few hours to see if it needs topping up as the wood will probably absorb some of the resin.Use some tape to seal the cracks and gaps to prevent resin running out- a release tape works well for this.Next you need to check for cracks, knotholes and gaps on both the top and bottom of the pieces of wood and fill these with resin to seal them.
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